"So tomorrow I take the trail again to the canyons south."
-Everett Ruess-
N.p., n.d. Web. <http://blogs.harvard.edu/cqtwo/files/2009/07/05utah600.jpg>.
In November 1934 a young man with 2 burrows wandered into the town of Escalante, Utah. Little did people then know, this gentle wanderer would not only have an impact on the community and the area, his letters would also give a peek into their lives to future generations.
The story of Everett Ruess is a great piece of Southern Utah folklore that I have heard dozens of times since I was a young boy. I can vividly recall trips down the "desert" south of Escalante (the Hole-in-the-Rock road), where as I drove my mind would imagine Everett alone with his burrows, leading them through that unforgiving landscape. Where did he end up? Did my ancestors speak to him when he came through Escalante? I also tried to imagine where I would travel had I been him. Twenty years old and alone through 60 miles or more of the most remote country on earth, it is hard to put yourself in those shoes.
Retrieved http://old.seattletimes.com/ABPub/2009/07/04/2009419120.jpg |
National Geographic has written an excellent article on the search for Everett. For now however, I chose to take a look at Everett's experience in the small town of 1930's Escalante. David Roberts of National Geographic paints a great picture of conditions in Escalante during that time; "The country had been mired in the Great Depression for more than five years, and no town felt the pinch of poverty more acutely than Escalante. Founded by Mormon pioneers 59 years earlier, the small settlement in southern Utah—then one of the most remote towns in the United States—had been stricken in successive summers by a plague of grasshoppers that ruined the crops and by the worst drought in nearly eight decades" (Roberts).
No doubt in this small, tight knit LDS (Mormon) community during such hard times, seeing a traveler arrive would have been very surprising. For his young age, Everett was in fact, a very seasoned traveler, having spent the previous 4 years wandering alone all over northern New Mexico, Arizona, and southern Utah.
Escalante circa the Great Depression |
While the legend and mystery of Ruess focuses around his disappearance, as he made stops throughout the small communities of Garfield County, Utah, his letters to his parents offer a great look into farm and family life during those times.
From Bryce Canyon, Utah, Ruess describes time spent with a Mormon family in the area. Ruess describes the family as having 9 children, their father being a ranger at Bryce Canyon. From the book The Escalante Story we find that Ruess wrote, "This morning I rode out with one of the boys to look for a cow. We rode all over the hills and stopped at an orchard to load up with apples. Then I went to church, my first time in a Mormon church" (Woolsey). It is very interesting that a traveler would spend his time helping someone find a cow, and gathering apples. In such destitute times, agriculture and livestock would have been very valuable and important to people of the area. Maybe it things were so bad that Ruess could see it, and felt inclined to help. Or perhaps he was just that kind of person.
Sheep herd near Escalante (Woolsey) |
Ruess later writes his parents telling them of his trip over the mountains and into the town of Escalante. I Escalante he described riding horses with the local boys, hunting for arrowheads, and even taking in the movie, "Death Takes a Holiday" with them (Woolsey, Roberts). It appears that even in such times there was time for recreation, and just plain old "having fun". Everett concludes his Escalante experience by writing, "Tonight I have been sitting by the campfire with two of my friends, eating roast venison and baked potatoes" (Woolsey). Ruess sounded so pleased with his last night in Escalante, enjoying a couple of the main staples that the area had to offer. The area was abundant with deer, and residents frequently filled their meat stores with venison. Also, Escalante was once named "Potato Valley" due to the wild potato tubers that grew there, as well as the area's favorable conditions for growing potatoes.
Davis Gulch near the Escalante River. Near the last kown location of Ruess |
From there, Ruess slips into legend. Well, almost. There were in fact 2 other men that saw him before he disappeared. These men were sheepherders from Escalante that one week after he left town shared a campfire with him this time 50 miles south of Escalante. It is also interesting that the sheepherders shared with Everett the main agricultural resource of Escalante at that time, mutton. Well, they tried to share. Upon offering Ruess a leg of lamb to take with him, he replied that he preferred to travel light and had plenty of chocolate and other concentrated food (Woolsey). After departing the camp, Ruess was never seen nor heard from again.
Just as it appears that Ruess gained an attachment for the people of Escalante (and the surrounding area), it also appears that Escalante took an attachment to him! In fact, the men of Escalante swore to his parents to, "search for him like he is one of our own" (Woolsey). Although unsuccessful in finding him, they did find his burrows, and the inscription "NEMO" (for the Italian "no one") etched into a sandstone alcove. Today Ruess is as deeply ingrained into the area as his etching in the sandstone. Escalante now bears an art festival, "Everett Ruess Days" in his honor and memory.
"Here in the utter stillness,
High on the lonely cliff-edge,
where the air is trembling with lightning,
I have given the wind my pledge."
-Everett Ruess-
Works Cited:
Woolsey, Nethella G, and Nethella G. Woolsey. "Some Old Stories." The Escalante Story: A History of the Town of Escalante, and Description of the Surrounding Territory, Garfield County, Utah, 1875-1964. Springville: Art City Publishing Company, 1964. 414-419. Print.
Roberts, David. "Finding Everett Ruess - National Geographic Adventure Magazine." Adventure -- National Geographic. National Geographic Society, May 2009. Web. 17 Feb. 2016.